Swap the Islands for Northern Greece’s Quiet Magic
Think alpine villages, misty peaks, and medieval towns. This is where Greeks go to escape the crowds.
For this edition of The Layover, we’re spotlighting Greece pro, Joanna—a travel writer and actress who splits her time between her native Athens and adopted home of Brooklyn. She’s taking us to Northern Greece, a dreamlike region of alpine villages, misty mountains, and hidden history that most tourists overlook. It’s where Greeks go to escape the crowds. Book a 30-minute consult or go deeper with a 60-minute session for local intel you won’t find online.
Most tourists to Greece visit Athens and the islands. But for those who prefer wild landscapes, active travel, and authentic culture, Northern Greece offers a different kind of magic: jaw-dropping mountain ranges, UNESCO-listed villages, and medieval towns, not to mention stupendous hiking, rafting, and mountaineering. These are the places Greeks return to again and again—destinations they know, love, and proudly keep under the radar. Read on to discover the astounding beauty of Northern Greece—and how to experience this unsung region like a local.
Metsovo
Head to this mountain village in Northern Greece—known for its wines, meats, and cheese, as well as its traditional alpine architecture—to see a completely different side of the country. In the winter, you can even ski and snowboard at the nearby resort.
Things To Do:
Katogi Averoff Hotel & Winery—The crown jewel of Metsovo, this luxury hotel includes an incredible winery that offers delicious dinners, tours, and tastings. This was the first winery in Greece to produce red wine.
Tossizza Mansion—Get a glimpse into how locals lived at the end of the 19th century in this fully preserved historic home.
To Gnision—This cheese shop offers a huge selection of locally produced varieties. Knowledgeable staff will also help point you in the right direction based on your tastes and preferences.
Ioannina
The largest city in the Epirus region, Ioannina is especially picturesque and lively. Situated on a lake, it’s known for its hearty cuisine, silversmithing tradition, and historic sites tucked within castle walls.
Things To Do:
Ioannina Castle—Walk the mostly pedestrianized paths within the castle walls and soak in centuries of layered history.
Its Kale—This elevated section inside the castle walls is home to the Silversmithing Museum, Fethiye Mosque, and the Byzantine Museum of Ioannina.
The Island and Ali Pasha Museum—Take a boat (15–20 minutes) from the marina to Ioannina Island to discover stunning medieval churches and a small but fascinating museum dedicated to Ali Pasha and the revolutionary era.
Thessaloniki
Greece’s second city—in size, not quality—is the beating heart of Northern Greece. Known for its universities, food, and layered history, Thessaloniki maintains a lively energy thanks in part to its large student population. Explore different eras of Greek history here, from Roman ruins to the legacy of the city’s once-sizeable Jewish community. The city center, including most of the main attractions, is compact and walkable.
Things To Do:
White Tower of Thessaloniki—Climb to the top for panoramic views and explore exhibits on the city’s diverse past—wholly different from that of Athens.
Ladadika Area—Once a shady district of brothels and olive oil shops, this revitalized neighborhood is now a hub for dining and nightlife. Great restaurant picks include Kioupia and Mamalouka.
Rotunda & Arch of Galerius—Admire two of the city's best-known Roman ruins and, if time allows, step inside the Rotunda.
Stroll the Boardwalk—One of the best ways to spend an evening is simply walking the seafront promenade, watching ships drift past as Thessaloniki comes alive after dark.
Beach Break in Chalkidiki—The nearby peninsulas boast some of the country’s most beautiful beaches and coastal villages. As locals proudly say, “Like Chalkidiki, nowhere.”
Zagorohoria
This collection of 46 traditional mountain villages was recently named a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Winding roads, paved streets, and hiking trails weave through its storybook towns, passing clear turquoise rivers and one of Greece’s most impressive gorges.
Things To Do:
Village Hop—It’s hard to choose among so many picturesque villages, but local favorites include Papingo (a favorite among ritzy Athenians), Monodendri (as a base), and the smaller towns of Tsepelovo, Aristi, and Dilofo.
Hike Vikos Gorge—This epic gorge hike takes most of a day, from the central town of Monodendri to the village of Vikos. En-route, you’ll descend deep into the gorge and follow the pristine Voidomatis River through one of the most dramatic landscapes in the Balkans. (If you’re not up for the 6–8-hour hike, you can opt to simply admire the magnificent view at Oxya Viewpoint, reached via a short, 0.4 mile trail from Monodendri.)
Rafting on the Voidomatis River—Sign up for a rafting experience on one of the cleanest rivers in Europe.
Hike Drakolimni—This 10.9-mile (17.5 km) out-and-back trail leads to Dragon Lake, beginning near Papingo. The route offers jaw-dropping alpine scenery that showcases the wild beauty of the region.
Xanthi
Xanthi is a true cultural crossroads, with Slavic, Armenian, Turkish, and Greek influences reflected in its cuisine, language, and architecture. Its old town boasts some of the most beautiful historic buildings in Northern Greece. Some locals still speak Pomakika, a dialect blending Bulgarian and Turkish linguistic elements.
Things To Do:
Old Town of Xanthi—Meander the narrow lanes lined with cafés, tavernas, and boutiques, and admire the preserved Ottoman-era buildings.
The House of Shadow—A celebrated local art museum with whimsical sculptures and installations that play with light and shadow.
Pomakohoria—These remote mountain villages are home to the Pomaks, a Muslim minority group with deep roots in the region. The towns remain largely untouched by modernity, offering glimpses of traditional dress, architecture, and food in a lush alpine setting.
To experience the best of Northern Greece like a local, including where to stay and how to get there and around, book a 30-minute consultation with Joanna for intel you won’t find online.
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